Spring jewelry achieves $21.5mn
Masterpieces
of design drive
Sotheby’s
Jewelry auctions
Masterpieces
of design drive Sotheby’s Spring Jewelry auctions achieves $21.5 million in New
York. Propelled by strong interest in antique and contemporary jewels from the
houses of Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Harry Winston, as well as for
highly impressive colored and white diamonds, Sotheby’s spring auctions of Magnificent
Jewels and Fine Jewels concluded today in New York with a combined total of
$21.5 million. Below is a look at some
of the highlights that drove today’s sparkling results:
Magnificent Jewels
Auction
Total: $17.7 Million:
Gary
Schuler, Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewelry Division, Americas commented: “The
timeless appeal of exceptionally rare signed jewelry was reasserted today in
New York, with masterworks by Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., and Cartier – created
over the course of a century – capturing the attention of international
collectors. It was a thrill to bring the hammer down on these objects which
have been the subject of so much interest and attention over the last months,
and to see that attention translate into such strong bidding competition.”
Important Diamonds:
1:
An Important Fancy Intense Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring Weighing 3.24 carats,
Natural Color, VVS1 clarity Sold for $2,300,000 ($709,877 per carat) (estimate
$2.5/3 million). 2: An Exceptional Pair of Diamond Earclips, Betteridge Each
weighing 20.27 carats, F color, VS2 clarity Sold for $1,700,000 ($41,934 per
carat) (estimate $1.3/1.8 million). & 3: An Important Diamond Ring,
Betteridge Weighing 30.40 carats, H color, VS2 clarity Sold for $1,160,000
($38,158 per carat) (estimate $900,000/1.1 million).
Iconic Design:
Today’s
auction was highlighted by An Impressive Diamond ‘Serpenti’ Necklace by Bulgari,
which achieved $920,000 (estimate $800,000/1 million). Composed of 260 carats
of diamonds and measuring over 40 inches, this example is a masterpiece of
Bulgari’s iconic ‘Serpenti’ collection.
Speaking
to the Serpenti legacy, Frank Everett, Sales Director of Sotheby’s Luxury
Division, commented: “Bulgari has been reinventing the ‘Serpenti’ jewels for
decades, first with the gold tubogas watches that wrap and climb the wrist,
later with colored enamel ‘scales’, and now in fully paved diamond contemporary
pieces.
I
love the versatility of this necklace: it can be easily worn as a belt, a
variety of single strand lengths by adjusting the clasp, or a double-wrapped
necklace for maximum drama. It strikes me that no matter how often the Serpenti
appears on the red carpet, the most famous and beautiful women in the world are
happy to be seen in these pieces again and again. That’s the very definition of
timeless and iconic.”
Of
all the works produced by Cartier since its founding in 1847, it is their
dazzling creations from the Art Deco period that epitomize the firm’s
unparalleled innovation, style and craftsmanship. A rare discovery, the firm’s
Diamond, Coral, Emerald and Seed Pearl Pendeloque Brooch sold in today’s
auction for $824,000 – more than double its high estimate of $350,000.
Its
lithe, columnar form – originally intended to drape off the shoulder – was
inspired by the Indian sarpech, a jeweled turban pin that dangled like a tassel
over the eyebrow. In a nod to contemporary fashion, this piece’s attenuated
silhouette and highly articulated diamond-set panels echo the increased
mobility of drop-waist flapper dresses designed to swing along to the exuberant
tones of the Charleston.
Further,
the graphic geometry of the piece as a whole is strongly architectural: the
triangular coral and diamond projections are evocative of the winged roofs of
far Eastern pagodas, simultaneously prefiguring New York’s iconic Chrysler
Building. Returning consistently to its Indian inspiration, the large and
beautifully carved emerald bead at the bottom recalls the onion-domed finials
of the Taj Mahal.
After
intense competition from 5 bidders, an Exceptionally Rare Enamel and Diamond
Sautoir and Pair of Earrings by Tiffany & Co. sold to an online bidder for
$500,000 (estimate $200,000/300,000). Designed by the great American jeweler
Paulding Farnham, this set was first shown at the 1904 World’s Fair in St.
Louis, which celebrated the centennial of the 1803 Louisiana Purchase.
At
the time, Farnham was Tiffany & Co.’s preeminent designer and the director
of jewelry, responsible for famed designs including his acclaimed orchid series
and the Belmont Stakes Trophy. The present necklace and earrings are set with
large rose-cut diamonds framed with old European cut and single-cut diamonds.
Stylized
jardinières, nymphs and naiads, gargoyles, shield shapes, palmettes, acanthus
leaves, scrolls and arabesques, are all gracefully combined into a harmonious
flowing pattern decorated with colorful enamel. Works by Paulding Farnham
rarely appear on the market, but some important pieces have made their way into
private collections and museums including The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York, the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum: The Brooklyn Museum, The
Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
Often
referred to as ‘The King of Diamonds,’ Harry Winston is recognized as one of
the greatest jewel connoisseurs from the 20th century. Featuring two
pear-shaped emeralds, each weighing over 10 carats, this pair of Emerald and
Diamond Pendant-Earclips by the storied jeweler achieved $764,000 (estimate
$600/800,000).
Fine Jewels:
Auction
Total: $3.9 Million:
Kendall Reed, Head of
Fine Jewels and Global Head of Online Jewels said: We are incredibly pleased
with the results of this afternoon’s sale, which neared our high estimate and
had a strong 82% of lots sold. Similar to what we saw this morning, this result
was driven by strong competition for signed pieces by celebrated makers like
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co., in addition to colored
stones and diamonds. We continue to see enthusiastic bidding for fashionable,
wearable jewelry offered at a variety of price points.”
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